KITCHEN REVIEW

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HERBS, SPICES AND OTHER AROMATICS - LEMON GRASS

How to choose, prepare, cook and store lemon grass

LEMON GRASS (lemongrass)

|  Mandarin: NINGMENG CAO  |  Cantonese: XIANG MAO  |  Malay: SERAI  |  Thai: TAKRAI  |  Vietnamese: XA  |

At one time this scented grass was little known outside South-east Asia, but today, it is to be found in nearly every supermarket the world over - few ingredients have seized the Western imagination quite so dramatically as has lemon grass. It is a perennial tufted plant with a bulbous base and grows in dense clumps in tropical and subtropical countries and is commercially cultivated on a grand scale. Lemon grass is usually sold with stems cut to approximately 20cm / 8in long and look a little like fat spring onions or very skinny leeks.

 aroma & flavor..

It is only when stems are cut that the distinctive citrus aroma can be fully appreciated. This is matched by the clean, intense lemon flavor, which has a hint of ginger but none of the acidity associated with lemon or grapefruit.

Lemon rind is sometimes suggested as a substitute, but it lacks the intensity and liveliness of fresh lemon grass, and will give disappointing results. Ground dried lemon grass, also known as serai powder, can be used instead of fresh ones. As a guide, approximately 1 teaspoon of powder is equivalent to 1 fresh stalk. Whole and dried chopped stalks are also available in jars from oriental stores, and larger supermarkets, as are jars of lemon grass paste.

 culinary uses..

The uses of lemon grass is wide spread in South-east Asia - in soups, sauces, stir-fries, curries, salads, pickles and marinades. It is also a perfect partner for coconut milk, especially in fish, seafood and chicken dishes. In Thailand, cooks often start a stir-fry by adding a few rings of lemon grass and perhaps a little grated or chopped fresh root ginger or galangal to the oil. This not only flavors the oil, but also fills the room with a glorious aroma.

 preparation & cooking techniques..

There are two main ways of using lemon grass. The stalk can be bruised, then cooked slowly in a soup or stew until it releases all its flavor and is removed, or the tender portions of the lemon grass stalk (usually the lower 5cm / 2 in of the bulbous end of the stem) can be sliced or finely chopped, then srir-fried or used in a salad or braised dish. Often one stalk will serve both purposes, the tougher top end is used for background flavoring while the tender portion forms the focal point of a dish. For basting food that is to be grilled or barbecued, the upper portion of another lemon grass stalk can be used. The fibrous end is flattened with a cleaver or pestle to make a brush.

 storage..

Store lemon grass stalk in a paper bag in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator. Lemon grass will keep for easily two to three weeks.

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